Happy Family: Wild Earth Travel's Sarah before embarking Paul Gauguin with her boys, Issac and Lachlan, and husband Hayden.
Sarah recently explored French Polynesia aboard Paul Gauguin with her family, experiencing the islands through a blend of adventure, culture and relaxation
When your children turn into teenagers and young adults living away from home, family holidays become even more treasured. They also take on a different dynamic – requiring a destination that's appealing, activities that are engaging, and a pace that allows for both adventure and relaxation.
Sailing aboard the stunning Paul Gauguin in French Polynesia ticked all the boxes for our family and proved to be one of the best ways to experience all these islands have to offer.
Settling into Life Onboard
Boarding Paul Gauguin in Papeete was seamless, and the warm greetings and assistance from the crew were just a taste of what was to come. Although owned and operated by French luxury cruise line PONANT, Paul Gauguin has a long legacy in French Polynesia and was specifically built to navigate the shallow waters of the South Pacific. For more than 25 years, she has sailed almost exclusively in French Polynesia, and the spirit of the islands is evident everywhere onboard.
With just 165 staterooms, there is an intimate feel among both crew and fellow passengers, yet there is still plenty of space across her nine decks to escape and find a quiet corner or sun lounger.
We’ve travelled aboard small ships and expedition vessels as a family before, and there are so many benefits to this relaxed and stress-free style of travel. Once onboard and unpacked, we know there will be no more checking in and out, packing and repacking, and our toothbrushes will remain in the same spot for the 11 days ahead. Yet every day we wake to new landscapes, islands, atolls and experiences – on land, on the water, in the water and beneath the water.
We quickly settle into the rhythm of the ship and have time to enjoy both the destinations and each other’s company as the voyage unfolds.
As we sailed out of Papeete into the setting sun, we were quick to book scuba diving. This activity can only be reserved onboard and was a huge priority for our youngest son and me. The dive team were fantastic, and booking "a couple of dives" soon turned into six, with every site offering something different.
After a life-on-board briefing from our Cruise Director and the mandatory lifeboat drill, we enjoyed a cocktail on the pool deck – soon to become one of our favourite spots – before dinner in L'Etoile, Paul Gauguin’s main restaurant.
There are three restaurants onboard, and Executive Chef Paul Ellis did an incredible job delivering variety at every meal. It genuinely felt as though we were dining in a different restaurant each time. The famous PONANT cheese selection quickly became a standing order at our table.
Not quite ready for bed, we finished the evening with a nightcap in La Palette, a relaxed lounge on the top deck where the Santa Rosa band had guests dancing and singing along to classic tunes.
Discovering Fakarava
Excursions are booked and paid for separately onboard Paul Gauguin, allowing guests to tailor their experience to their interests and activity levels.
We didn't book organised excursions every day. With advice from the onboard Travel Concierge team, we instead hired bicycles when we arrived in Fakarava. This atoll in the western Tuamotus stretches around 60 kilometres long and 20 kilometres wide.
"Pay for the bikes when you bring them back" was refreshingly simple – after all, it wasn't as though we weren't returning to the ship.
The biggest decision was whether to turn left or right. We headed right and soon found ourselves at a beautiful beach set up with deck chairs and cold drinks, where we enjoyed our first swim in the warm waters of French Polynesia.
That evening, we attended the Captain's Gala Welcome Party – a chance to dress up, enjoy French Champagne and have professional photographs taken with the Captain and Officers.
Fakarava is best known for its underwater world and is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, protected for its pristine ecosystem. Lachlan, our 17-year-old son, and I had our first dive booked the following day. While he had dived in the South Pacific before, spotting a shark was at the top of his wish list.
A short tender ride brought us to Ohotu Reef, where we enjoyed a spectacular wall dive. Lachlan lost count after spotting eight reef sharks, alongside countless tropical fish and a rather impressive moray eel.
It was just a taste of what was to come.
Life at Sea
We all slipped effortlessly into the rhythm of life onboard Paul Gauguin. The daily programme offered everything from fitness classes and jewellery making to afternoon Bingo, which became a favourite activity for my husband Hayden and eldest son Isaac.
Each evening featured live entertainment. We were fortunate to have illusionist Nicolas Del Pozo onboard, whose intimate performances in the piano bar and full stage shows were highlights.
The Santa Rosa band, a solo vocalist, pianist, and the beloved Gauguines and Gauguins also contributed enormously to the onboard atmosphere. This local Polynesian troupe shares authentic culture and traditions through song, dance, craft and storytelling, bringing the spirit of French Polynesia onboard in a meaningful way.
Diving Rangiroa
After another overnight sail, we awoke as Paul Gauguin approached Rangiroa, the largest atoll in the Tuamotus and one of the largest in the world.
The view over morning coffee from our balcony was breathtaking as we entered through the narrow Tiputa Pass before anchoring within the lagoon.
Our dive at Tiputa Reef delivered even more excitement than Fakarava, with dolphins, sharks and the largest green turtle I have ever seen.
The diving continued to impress with its variety and abundance.
Bora Bora – Every Bit as Beautiful as You Imagine
Perhaps the most anticipated island of all was Bora Bora, dominated by the dramatic silhouette of Mount Otemanu.
We had booked the Lagoon Cruise and Polynesian Feast excursion, which had come highly recommended. It quickly proved to be one of the highlights of the voyage.
Our guide, Maui, greeted us with a ukulele and infectious enthusiasm, setting the tone for a day that was fun, authentic and unforgettable.
After swimming with manta rays, snorkelling amongst reef sharks and stingrays, and exploring vibrant coral gardens, we arrived at a private motu where a traditional Polynesian feast had been cooking underground all morning.
The meal featured suckling pig, chicken, breadfruit, plantain bananas, raw fish salad, tuna and lobster, accompanied by French Champagne served in paper cups.
It was simple, authentic and absolutely perfect.
We returned to the ship with full bellies and full hearts after a day we will never forget.
Raiatea and Cultural Connections
Raiatea, often referred to as the sacred island of French Polynesia, holds immense cultural and spiritual significance and is home to the UNESCO-listed Taputapuātea Marae.
While many guests visited these important sites, we opted for the Anapa Pearl Farm and Snorkelling excursion. With only 12 guests, it offered a fascinating insight into black pearl cultivation and some excellent snorkelling directly beneath the pearl farm.
It was the perfect combination of education, relaxation and exploration.
A Perfect Day at Motu Mahana
The private paradise of Motu Mahana was a true PONANT moment.
The beacher tenders delivered us to a private island where we were welcomed with music, smiles and sunshine. A floating bar, beach barbecue, local artisans and even seaside spa treatments created a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.
By this stage of the voyage, we were on first-name terms with many fellow passengers, and the island felt more like a gathering of friends than a cruise excursion.
As the day wore on, many guests returned to the ship, leaving us to enjoy what felt like our own private slice of paradise.
Then reality struck.
There was only one island left, and work was waiting on Monday.
I have experienced "PONANT depression" before, and it was definitely beginning to set in.
Our Final Days in Paradise
Our final scuba dives took place in Moorea at Turtle Reef and Lemon Shark Reef.
Turtle Reef delivered dozens of curious turtles, while Lemon Shark Reef offered one final shark encounter to finish the trip in style.
Meanwhile, Hayden and Isaac hiked Moorea's peaks and enjoyed spectacular views over the island's lush interior, turquoise lagoon and our anchored Paul Gauguin.
The final sailaway was particularly emotional. Captain Michel Quioc, Cruise Director Hereiti Tregou Maihi and the entire crew joined guests on the pool deck for a heartfelt farewell.
There were more than a few tears as passengers exchanged hugs, contact details and promises to stay in touch.
Why We'd Return
Paul Gauguin has countless touches that help guests connect deeply with French Polynesia, and the Gauguin hosts and hostesses are central to that experience.
As a family, we embraced the excursions and adventures, but equally appreciated the quiet moments spent reading on deck, relaxing by the pool and enjoying long dinners together.
With our boys at this age, family holidays are becoming harder to organise and increasingly expensive. Creating meaningful memories together has become a priority, and this voyage delivered that in abundance.
We made incredible memories, had time to unwind, shared remarkable experiences and enjoyed extraordinary meals together.
French Polynesia is a destination we know we will return to, and when we do, we look forward to stepping back onboard Paul Gauguin for more adventures in this island paradise.
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QUICK FACTS:
The Ship: Paul Gauguin suits French Polynesia beautifully and such a legacy in French Polynesia. The facilities on board were great - everything and more than that was needed.
Our cabin: The cabin is ideal - great space with plenty of room to unpack. Definitely worth considering a balcony… perfect for morning coffees and evening sundowners.
The Crew: Outstanding - from the housekeepers to waiters, we loved their personal chats and fun interaction... Like other PONANT voyages, the crew is always a highlight. You can genuinely tell they love their job.
Food and dining: Awesome! We loved the main restaurant, L’Etoile, with the vibe, and we also enjoyed dining with other guests. Le Grill was our fav for lunches as it was al fresco and next to the pool. There’s a great variety across the restaurants and throughout the meal times. The PONANT cheese selection is always a favourite after dinner.
Excursions:
- The scuba diving team were exceptional, and the diving opportunities were delivered well. Ideal for families and groups who have non-divers as they can do other excursions, and it was only half days - even when we did double dives.
- Lagoon Cruise and Polynesian Feast (Bora Bora) was our favourite - such a great day.
- Circle Island by Wave Runner (Bora Bora) - A great operator and a 'must do' bucket list experience.
- Anapa Pearl Farm and Snorkelling (Raiatea) - we loved this! Really enjoyed the process of pearl cultivation, and the snorkelling was great - like a 2-for-1 excursion!
- The team on the Travel Concierge desk are fantastic and their general talks about each destination are spot on. They don’t try and 'over sell' excursions, and when we missed out on all the prebooked excursions on Fakarava they told us to hire bikes on the wharf - one of the best afternoons we had.
- Shopping! We did buy a couple of things in the onboard boutique, but it was fantastic to have opportunities to support local vendors. The day at Motu Mahana was brilliant, and the vendors there are very engaged. There were also plenty of opportunities to buy French Polynesia’s famous black pearls.
- Motu Mahana was a real 'PONANT moment' - keep this day free from excursions and enjoy the island... such a wonderful day.
SPA: Best Deep Tissue Massage on my last day... and I was upsold on an after sun oil, which was liquid gold and saved my tan.
Entertainment: The Cruise Director, the Gauguines and Gauguins are wonderful - do they even sleep?! Very authentic and their shows and interactions are great. The other local performance groups brought onboard for shows are also exceptional. The band on board, Santa Rosa, was brilliant to. We also partook in Bingo, Karaoke, craft making, etc. Always something on, but time to relax as well.
Sail aways / Morning arrivals: Great communication about where/when we were leaving and arriving in the various islands/atolls - absolutely spectacular scenery... either in my PJs with a coffee on the balcony in the morning... or in my swimsuit on the pool deck with the spritz in the evenings – these moments are not to be missed. Great time to socialise with other passengers and share stories from the day too.
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