Red River to Ha Long Bay

25 September, 2026

Above: Wild Earth Travel's Sarah Porter aboard Angkor Pandaw on the Red River

“Oh, so you’re doing the Mekong?” was the typical reply when I said I was doing a river cruise in Vietnam. It seemed not many people had heard of the Red River in the north of Vietnam, and with Pandaw being the only river cruise operating along that river, we certainly ventured into many untouched places.

Welcome aboard

I boarded Angkor Pandaw on the outskirts of Hanoi, after crossing over boardwalk planks, past fishermen and through a floating café. I was greeted by a gorgeous small river boat that looked like she suited the destination perfectly, as well as smiling faces from the some of the attentive crew. I was soon to learn we had 18 local crew looking after just 13 guests onboard, who were quick to learn our names, how we liked our coffee and what shoes we wore (I’ll come to that later!)

My cabin was on the lower deck, with ample space to unpack my things, a bathroom stocked with lemongrass and lime flavoured amenities, and much needed air con. After settling in, I headed to the upper deck, and it didn’t take long to meet my fellow travellers and familiarise myself with the indoor dining area and outdoor lounge. Not long after the other guests boarded, we cast off our lines and set sail up the river, while enjoying our first lunch on board together.

Now for the adventure…

After a short trip north, we tied up alongside the river, and the crew cleared a path up to a waiting bus. Once we arrived at Thay Pagoda our guide, Jay, gave us a fantastic insight into this historic place before some of the group chose to climb the 100 stairs above the village. We soon realised there were a lot more than 100 stairs, and in 30+ degree heat we worked off our lunch quickly. Next, we visited a conical hat village and learnt how these iconic hats were made by hand. We were all given a hat to keep, which proved to be ideal in both the sunshine and rain that was to come!

Back on board, we enjoyed our first happy hour together with a complimentary cocktail and canapes, and a briefing by our wonderful purser. Jay, our guide, also gave us a briefing on the following day’s activities before we enjoyed dinner together and our first night’s sleep aboard our new home.

Our first visit on day two was to the Hung Lo temple. After wandering through the local village, where fresh noodles lined the streets on drying racks, we were greeted by even more smiles from the locals. We enjoyed a traditional folk song called “Hat Xoan” then rolled our sleeves up to try our hand at making sticky rice parcels as well as pounding the sticky rice. Laughter seemed to be our common language, as we all gave it a go and we soon realised we were very much a novelty and attraction. Being the first cruise of the season, into villages where tourists don’t usually venture, we became the subject of their photos and were even interviewed by their local media.

Back on board for lunch (and a siesta for some!) we then ventured out again to a different village – the blacksmith village of Ly Nhan. We were soon to learn that each village has its own unique specialty or craft. Watching knives being made by hand (and plenty of heat) was mesmerising, and when we realised we could buy them for less than NZ$20 a knife we all reached for our Vietnamese dong!

The UNESCO village of Duong Lam has a history of about 1,200 years, with many houses dating back to up to 400 years. We were given a challenge by our guide Jay and split into teams to shop for ingredients at the local market. Amongst the lime, lemongrass and ginger, were also buckets of frogs, fish, silkworms and the ‘butchery departments’ had every offering. It was again a great insight into a totally different way of life – buying just what was needed fresh daily, and an incredibly social environment for the local people. Again – so many smiles and so much laughter, and genuine gratitude and appreciation that we were visiting them. We were fortunate to then be hosted in a 400-year-old home, enjoying sticky rice treats, rice wine and further insight into their community and ancient agriculture.

The skies opened up for us that afternoon, which seemed perfect timing as we had an afternoon sailing back down the river towards Hanoi. The thunder and lightening kept us all entertained, as well as an impromptu talent show amongst the guests!

Hanoi

Back in Vietnam’s capital of Hanoi, we headed off on a morning tour of the ‘main sites’. A visit to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, the prison known as ‘Hanoi Hilton’ as well as the Temple of Literature. My previous trip to Vietnam was 26 years prior, and although there was a lot more traffic and tourists, these main sites had not changed much at all. After lunch (back on board) we donned our ponchos and headed out again – first to the now-famous Train Street in Vietnam, and then a walking tour around the old quarter before finishing with an egg coffee and lesson on how these are made.

We were now sailing south of Hanoi and reaching the halfway point of our voyage. Stopping at Bat Trang, we enjoyed a walk through this ceramic village where traditions of producing ceramics have been passed through the generations. Watching, then trying our hand at making ceramics most of us opted to then wander the streets and purchase incredible intricate and unique ceramic bowls, vases and the like. As we walked back through the streets toward the boat, we were greeted by performers who surprised and delighted us with a traditional Lion Dance as a farewell to Hanoi.

An afternoon spent sailing on the river, we were treated to a fruit carving and cooking demonstration with our talented chef. Then, we all fell back into our new routine… happy hour and sunset, perhaps a game of rummikub; and another incredible three course meal. By this stage, the dining room had been rearranged, and we were now enjoying our meals at one long table together – family style.

On to the Lower Red River

Our guide briefed us well, that our visit to Ninh Binh was going to be a full day off the vessel and a longer bus ride each way. What we weren’t prepared for was our style of tender – a barge that tied up alongside to take us ashore! Yet another mode of transport that was unique but suited the destination perfectly. On arrival into Ninh Binh our first observation was the tourists – we truly had felt we were the only ones for the last few days. We paired off into rowing boats to enjoy a leisurely ride through limestone caves, although with our skippers rowing with ‘foot power’ we all agreed it was hard work for them and worthy of a tip. Lunch was enjoyed at the nearby Emeralda Resort, before most of our group ventured off on bikes for a guided ride through town and the nearby fields. Back at the resort we had the choice of a full body massage or foot massage, before a swim and cocktail and return trip on the bus to our awaiting home-away-from-home. We arrived back to the river just on dusk, and returning to Angkor Pandaw all lit up was like a fairytale. On arrival back on the boat after each excursion, we would be greeted by attentive crew with cold towels, an ever-changing glass of cold juice, and our shoes would be taken away and cleaned before returned to our cabin. The little things often make the biggest difference.

You wouldn’t have realised without checking the map, but we were travelling along the Red River through all its bends and twists and were now heading in a northerly direction. We reached the village of Doi Tam on a Sunday, so while the streets seemed sleepy, the local community all knew we were coming and were in droves in greet us at the village temple. Here, ladies of the village led a traditional drum performance and the enjoyment on their faces was contagious! We also had the chance to pound out a beat, before visiting local houses and workshops where the drums were made. From turning the wood to drying the buffalo skin, we were shown firsthand the delicate tasks needed to construct these amazing instruments of all sizes. After lunch, we headed to Stork Island – a natural habitat for migrating birds and also visited a private Bonsai garden. One of the guests aboard our voyage was a Bonsai enthusiast, so our guide arranged a visit to the captain’s brother – who tended to an amazing Bonai collection (that was also very valuable!) As many of the crew came from this village, it was lovely to see them reunited for the afternoon with their families.

From the galley to the stores, to the crew quarters and bridge, it was both interesting and very reassuring to see the ‘back end’ of operations. Meticulously clean, tidy and well stocked; with technology and water treatments systems that left nothing to chance.

Rain returned in the afternoon, but by now nothing was going to stop our excursions off the boat. We disembarked directly onto the riverbank, and with every hand helping us navigate the slippery slope we walked (waded!) a short distance into town for a special water puppet show in Thanh Ha village. The show was clever and entertaining, but again we felt like we were the ‘show’ as many locals came to greet us. After the water puppet show, we enjoyed ‘a pint at the local pub’. VERY different to pubs back home, we sat on small plastic stools, shelled our own peanuts and shared toasts with the locals. More laughs, photos and fun. Another afternoon that felt both a privilege and pleasure to be in such a small and authentic community.

Halong Bay

We finally made it to the coast and to the famous Halong Bay. Whilst this was the highlight for many on board, it was also bittersweet as it meant our adventure was coming to an end. A morning on the deck saw us navigate from the river to the ocean, and into the Halong Bay archipelago. Even more so than Ninh Binh, we were soon in the throes of commercial tourism again, with boats of all shapes and sizes on every side of us. We all agreed (perhaps somewhat bias by now) that we were the best-looking boat, and the only one that really suited the destination. Small rowing boats pulled up alongside, and we were taken to the “dark and bright cave”. Again, we were surrounded by tourists (and rubbish) and whilst beautiful, it didn’t have the authenticity we had experienced over the past week.

Our captain did a fantastic job anchoring us in a semi-secluded spot, as due to the risk of cyclones there are only certain anchor spots within Halong Bay, and I would guess hundreds of boats vying for tranquillity. After yet another incredible dinner, I was somewhat distracted heading to bed as the crew were fishing for squid. Never one to turn down a fishing rod, very soon several of us were jigging for squid from the side of the boat. I snagged success, and within minutes of landing my catch it was been cooked and prepared in the kitchen for us all to try. Perhaps my excitement stirred a few others, and soon other guests were fishing alongside me in their PJs!

Our last full day aboard, and in Halong Bay, saw us head ashore and visit the Viet Hai village - a remote, peaceful community of about 300 residents nestled deep within the jungles and limestone mountains of Cat Ba National Park on Cat Ba Island. Half of our group jumped on mountain bikes for the short, but somewhat flooded, ride to town; whilst otherwise wisely chose the electric buggy. We wandered through town, before reconvening at a local café that offered a unique ‘gift with purchase’. Buy a drink and enjoy a fish massage! This was both hilarious and frightening for me!!

Our captain yet again found a perfect spot to anchor for the afternoon, and the crew set up for sundowners on a secluded beach. The chance for a swim, and a few hours here was the perfect way to see the sun set on our last night. The crew then joined us for a farewell presentation, which ended in a packed dancefloor – all of us doing the twist!

Farewell Angkor Pandaw

Our disembarkation morning was seamless, with breakfast before a bus trip back to Hanoi. We stopped enroute for lunch and a quick shop, and Jay – our amazing guide – did not leave our side until we were all safely back where we needed to be.

My time on Angkor Pandaw exploring Vietnam’s Red River was totally unique and authentic, offering an incredible way to venture into smaller lesser-known villages of Vietnam. Three couples on our voyage were repeat Pandaw clients – for one couple it was their sixth voyage – and I totally understand why. The ship is comfortable and purpose built for the destination; and the crew is so attentive and caring.

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More information:

Food & Dining:

Throughout our 11 days onboard we were spoilt for choice with our meal options and the wonderful Vietnamese flavours integrated into every dish.

At lunchtime, there was always a salad buffet with at least four different fresh salads. We realised we ate different salads each day, so our talented chef created over 40 different salads throughout our voyage – each as interesting, flavoursome and fresh as the last. On top of this, there was a main course selection and dessert… and that was just lunch!

Breakfast offered a buffet of fruit, pastries, cereals and the usual trimmings; as well as a hot menu to choose from and - wait for it – a cooking station with noodles, soup or the like!

Dinners were also three course and catered for all dietary needs. We had a vegetarian, dairy free, gluten free… everyone received specially prepared dishes specific to their needs… even salads and soups prepared with no onion as per one request.

Pandaw dining rooms are designed to open up along the sides during the day to enable wonderful views and cooling breezes.

Great choice of local cuisine and exotic dishes

European alternatives are available

Buffet breakfast

Lunch and dinner are served

Mineral water, tea and coffee freely available

Light snacks available throughout the cruise

Daily complementary cocktail hour before dinner

Free Flow Drinks & Wine Packages:

There are three different drinks packages. They also have a complimentary cocktail of the day each evening. You can buy a bottle of wine for the duration (or more than one!) and drink it at meals.

House wine - US$178: Unlimited house wine with lunch and dinner.

Free flow drinks - US$132: Includes most soft drinks and local mineral water, house spirits & mixers and beers. Excludes wines, imported spirits and imported mineral waters.