Papua New Guinea

Lying just south of the equator, 160km north of Australia, Papua New Guinea is part of a great arc of mountains stretching from Asia, through Indonesia and into the South Pacific. This fascinating land boasts more than 600 islands and more than 800 indigenous languages (tok ples), and is home to the largest area of intact rainforest outside of the Amazon. Papua New Guinea consists of 4 regions made up of 19 provinces and the National Capital District, each with their own special character and cultures. Visitors will discover a wealth of tropical scenery, from the jungle-clad mountains of the highlands to the sandy white beaches and atolls of the coastal and island provinces.
 
Vast tracts of the country are wild and undeveloped, with magnificent scenery that ranges from pristine coral atolls to volcanic mountains, dense tropical rainforest and large rivers. The mainland is divided by the Owen Stanley Range, a massive central spike with peaks towering over 4000m. Great rivers begin their journey to the sea from these mountains, among them the mighty Sepik River, one of the world's longest waterways. Beneath the mountain chain, fertile coastal plains, flooded delta regions and mangrove swamps exist alongside broad sandy beaches and sheltered bays. The rugged mountain terrain and deep cave systems offer wonderful adventure opportunities for walkers, cavers and climbers, and there is canoeing, kayaking and fishing on the river and delta system. Papua New Guinea also enjoys some of the world's best diving around its warm coastal waters, with striking coral reefs around the mainland coast and the islands of the Bismarck Sea and the Milne Bay area.

History

This diverse land was settled more than 30,000 years ago, although the first European sighting was not made until 1512 when Portuguese explorer D'Abreu sailed by the mainland. The Dutch explorers who followed christened it New Guinea, named after Guinea in Africa. In the years that followed, missionaries and traders exerted a strong influence over the local culture, and today Papua New Guinea's cultural heritage has largely been preserved by small, independent villages.
When World War II broke out, parts of the country were occupied by the Japanese and fierce fighting took place with the Allied forces. Today, there are relics dating from these battles throughout the country, including sunken battleships and aircraft in the waters around Madang and Rabaul. Papua New Guinea became independent in 1975 but retains strong ties to Australia.

Flora and Fauna

The country's pristine rainforest is home to many rare species of birds and insects, including the world’s largest butterfly, the Queen Alexandra Birdwing, whose wingspan reaches up to 30cm. There are about 700 species of birds, including parrots, pigeons, hornbills (kokomos), cassowaries, cockatoos and kingfishers, but the country is best known for its brilliantly coloured birds of paradise. Thirty-eight of the 43 known species of birds of Paradise are found here, including the rare blue and the raggiana varieties, enticing birdwatchers from around the world. 
The country is also famous for its many beautiful orchids. More than 3000 species are unique to the country – over two thirds of the world's known species – and new varieties are still being discovered. Visitors to Port Moresby shouldn’t miss the capital’s National Botanic Gardens. This haven of greenery has a 2km boardwalk threading beneath a jungle canopy, green lawns, excellent wildlife displays, and a huge collection of orchids. A shade house in the shape of the country has plants from all the different regions. It’s located just beyond the University of Papua New Guinea on Waigani Drive. The Rainforest Habitat, next to the University of Technology at Lae (Morobe Province) is similar. It has 3000sq metres of rainforest under a canopy, with a lake, raised walkways, semi-tame birds and beautiful flowers. You’ll find the largest variety of birds of paradise species kept anywhere in the world, together with other native wildlife such as tree kangaroos, parrots, cassowaries and the unique New Guinean long-nosed echidna.

People & Culture

The people are mostly descendants of the Papuans – Melanesians who are closely related to the islanders of Fiji, New Caledonia and Vanuatu. Today there are 5,130,560, people living in Papua New Guinea – more than a third of them in the rugged Highlands. Papua New Guinea's culture is extremely diverse and, within each region, visitors will experience a rich variety of ancient traditions. The traditional Melanesian cultures – more than 200 have been identified – are kept alive in elaborate rituals involving deaths, feasts, marriages, compensation ceremonies and initiation rites. Visitors to country areas, especially in the highlands, will often find local variations in village construction, dialect and dress. Cultural heritage is celebrated at the annual Sing Sing shows, where villagers from around the country demonstrate their singing, dancing and elaborate bilas (traditional costumes). The shows at Goroka and Mount Hagen are among the country's most impressive, attracting thousands of spectators each year.

Village Life

Although the country is gradually changing, many people still live in small villages, making a living from subsistence agriculture. In some areas, people are specialized as gardeners, fishers, hunters or craftspeople. Traditionally, women are responsible for the household and daily work of the village, while men take care of hunting, trade and warfare. Village stays are a wonderful way to spend time with people and learn more about the local culture and lifestyle. Remember to be respectful of local customs and religious beliefs, and don't wander off alone – always take a local guide with you. Most land is owned by a community or village so remember you will need to ask for permission to enter.

Language

More than 800 local languages (in addition to many minor dialects) exist in Papua New Guinea – about a third of the world's indigenous tongues. Pidgin (Tok Pisin) is common to most Papua New Guineans, and learning a few words can be handy, especially when travelling in more remote areas.