Madagascar
Madagascar
A veritable Noah’s Ark set adrift into evolutionary exile from mainland Africa.
Madagascar, with its truly unique natural wonders, offers the visitor scenery that is rich in diversity, a variety of climatic and floral zones and some truly amazing animals to be found nowhere else in the world.
It is the island’s fabulous array of endemic plants and animals which is the largest attraction for travellers, the best-known being the tree-dwelling lemurs, of which there are 23 species. Other visitor favourites are the astonishing chameleons, with their independently swivelling eyes and ability to change colour to indicate mood and for mating.
There are some astonishingly colourful species of endemic birds, including ground-rollers, oxylabes, newtonias, fish eagles, vanga and couas. Visitors will also note the many species of insects, spiders and butterflies.
MADAGASCAR
Travelling in Madagascar is not for everybody. The most ancient road is not yet 100 years old and tourism is a very young industry. Many conveniences available and expected in heavily-travelled places like Greece or Japan simply do not exist. If you insists on exact schedules, well-planned itineraries and plush accommodations, if you want to be able to hop on the next plane or place an urgent long-distance phone call, this country is not for you.
However, if you are flexible and looking for the unexpected, if you want to meet an extraordinary people, then go and discover this fascinating island! You will certainly agree with the characterization made by world-explorer Dervla Murphy: "Apart from the Tibetans, I have never travelled among a people as endearing as the Malagasy." You will become attached to the country, verifying once more the Malagasy proverb: "They who drink the water from the Manangareza river always come back to Madagascar".
Geography
Madagascar is the world's fourth largest island, after Greenland, New Guinea and Borneo. Located 250 miles off the south-east coast of Africa (opposite Mozambique), the island extends 1,000 miles in length and 360 miles at its largest width.
The island can be divided into three main parts: the East Coast, a narrow coastal strip abutting the steep slopes of the North-South mountain range, home of the rain forest; the Central Highlands, averaging 2500 to 4500 feet in altitude and culminating at 9430 feet, decorated with immense rice fields; and the West Coast, home of the baobabs and thorny forest. Coral reefs fringe a portion of the coast.
Area: 587,041 sq km (226,658 sq miles).
Capital: Antananarivo (formerly Tananarive).
Population: Fifteen million Malagasy inhabit Madagascar. (15,529,000 – 2001 official estimate). Exactly how and when the early Malagasy discovered and settled the island is not known. They have a dual Indonesian and African origin, attested by their physical features, language, agricultural practices, and customs. In spite of their diversity, they are united by a common language, rooted in the ancient Malayo-Polynesian, ancestor of the tongues spoken in the vast area bounded by Hawaii, the Tuamotu and Madagascar. The modern language has been enriched by words imported from Bantu tongues, Swahili, Arabic, English and French.
Government: Republic since 1992. Gained independence from France in 1960. Head of State: President Marc Ravalomanana since 2002. Head of Government: Prime Minister Jean-Jacques Rasolondraibe since 2002.
Religion: 51 per cent follow animist beliefs, about 43 per cent Christian; remainder Muslim.
Time: GMT + 3.
Electricity: Mostly 127/220 volts AC, 50Hz. Plugs are generally two-pin.
People and Culture
The Malagasy people are known for their friendliness and willingness to help and assist where necessary and will go out of their way to help a stranger, particularly in the rural areas. Religious cultures live in harmony with one another, as first and foremost they are Malagasy with a proud heritage and take pride in their country.
"Ny havany efa maty no ataoan'ny Malagasy hoe: Razana." This quote from the philosopher Rahajarizafy comes from a passage extolling his compatriots' cult of the ancestors. The profound veneration of the Malagasy for their ancestors, the closeness of the former to the latter, are an extraordinary trait. This attachment to the ancestors coupled with a deep love and respect for their children, this orientation toward both the past and the future, seems to give the Malagasy a serene tranquility and sense of continuity in life.
Click below for more information about specific areas in Madagascar:
Ranomafana National Park
Located in the south eastern region, this is a very beautiful national park, established in the early 1990s to protect the newly discovered golden bamboo lemur. Its pleasant climate, waterfalls and rushing river, and the variety of species make it a deserved favourite.
Habitat and Terrain
Ranomafana’s protected montane rainforest covers an area of 41.600ha, at altitudes between 800m and 1.200m. The area is dominated by the Namorona river which, fed by many streams flowing from the hills, plunges from the eastern escarpment close to the park entrance. The steep slopes are covered with a mixture of primary and secondary forest : much of the secondary growth is dominated by dense stands of introduced Chinese guava and clumps of giant bamboo.
Key species
Mammals: One of the most important mammal sites in Madagascar. Most notable are golden bamboo lemur, greater bamboo lemur, grey bamboo lemur, Milne-Edwards’ sifaka, red-bellied lemur, red fronted brown lemur, and brown mouse lemur. Others include the fanaloka, the eastern ring-tailed mongoose, and the red forest rat. Present but hard to see are fosa and the aquatic tenrec.
Birds: Blue coua, red-fronted coua, Pollen’s vanga, Tylas, velvet asity, sunbird asity, pitta-like ground roller, scaly ground roller, short-legged ground roller, rufous-headed gound roller, brown mesite, Henst’s goshawk, Madagascar flufftail, slender-billed flufftail, forest rock-thrush, collared nightjar, common jery, green jery.
Reptiles and frogs:
Parson’s chameleon, and the similar-looking O’Shaughnessy’s chameleon, short-horned chameleon (Caluma brevicornis), Madagascar tree boa, three leaf-tailed geckos, Uroplatus fimbriatus, U. sikorae and U. phantasticus, the day gecko Phelsuma quadriocellata (common) and numerous frogs belonging to the genera Boophis and Mantidactylus.
Visitor information
Location: Approximately 65km north-east of Fianarantsoa.
Access: Via the poor road that connects Fianarantsoa with Mananjary on the east coast, a 2 hour journey from Fianarantsoa. There is an extensive system of trials and paths, but many follow steep and often muddy slopes. The local guides are generally excellent.
Best months to visit: the summer rainy season ( December to March) is the most rewarding, but access and conditions can be difficult. Otherwise the periods either side of the main rains: April to November.
Accommodation: Two rustic hotels in Ranomafana with another under construction. Camping at various sites within the park.
Grading: Moderate. Accommodation is basic and some trails are steep.
Recommendations: The minimum stay is one night, allowing an afternoon or night walk and a morning excursion. For enthusiasts, two or three days, with an all-day excursion and one night time visit. If possible camp for a night in the park to see mouse lemurs and fanaloka, also the scavenging ring-tailed mongoose which visits the campsites
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Perinet
Analamazaotra Special Reserve is popularly known by the old French name of the nearby town and railway station, Périnet (Andasibe in Malagasy). Most visitors making the two-day excursion from Antananarivo have one purpose: to hear and see the indri calling, but the reserve is also exceptionally rewarding for reptiles and frogs, and for birdwatching.
The nearby unprotected forests of Maromizaha are also gaining popularity. Hiking is strenuous but the rewards in terms of wildlife and views are excellent. The new National Park of Mantady, 25km to the north, offers the best chance of seeing the region’s rarer species. It is a rugged 2-3 day excursion, and a guide is essential.
Habitat and Terrain
Périnet, an example of montane rainforest, covers an area of 810ha at altitudes between 930 and 1.040m. Many of the largest trees have been removed and the canopy averages 25 30m. The main part of the reserve resembles a table, with steep, forested sides (up which steps have been cut) bordered by a small lake, and a water course.
The forests at Maromizaha are less disturbed, but have been subject to logging. Nonetheless, there are numerous huge buttress-rooted trees, festooned with mosses and epiphytes.
Key species
Mammals: Indri, brown lemur, grey bamboo lemur, eastern woolly lemur. At night : brown mouse lemur, greater dwarf lemur (summer only). Also red-forest rat and streaked tenrec. If lucky, diademed sifaka and black and white ruffed lemur (Maromizaha & Mantady National Park only).
Birds: Blue coua, red-fronted coua, blue vanga, red-tailed vanga, velvet asity, sunbird asity, pitta-like groud roller, short-legged ground roller (Maromizaha), brown mesite, collared nightjar, cuckoo roller, Tylas, cryptic warbler.
Reptiles and frogs: Very good for chameleons, including Parson’s chameleon, nose-horned chameleon (Calumma brevicornis), short-horned chameleon (Calumma nasutus), short-nosed chameleon (Calumma gastrotaenia). Also the stump—tailed chameleon (Brookesia superciliaris), leaf tailed gecko (Uroplatus fimbriatus), and Madagascar tree boa. Frogs include the golden mantella which is found in areas close to the reserve.
Visitor information
Location: 30km east of Moramanga, and approximately 145km east of Antananarivo, off the main road (RN2) between Antananarivo and Tamatave (Toamasina). It is the half-way station on the railway between the capital and main port.
Maromizaha lies to the south of RN2, some 8km from Périnet/Andasibe.
Access: From Antananarivo, 4 hours by car, 6 by train. A network of good paths runs throughout the main reserve. Those of Maromizaha are more difficult. The guides here are the best organised in Madagascar.
Best months to visit: Accessible and rewarding at any time of year. More comfortable in the drier months (May to November) but better for wildlife between September and April although rain can be heavy.
Accommodation: Three simple but comfortable hotels nearby - another one of good standing owns also a private reserve - and several others in Moramanga. Camping is permitted outside the reserve.
Grading: Easy/ moderate. Accommodation is simple and trails steep.
Recommendations: An evening and the following morning is sufficient to see the indri. A full day allows you to see other animals. A second day is necessary to explore the surroundings or Maromizaha fully.
Berenty Reserve
This is the best-known reserve in Madagascar. For most visitors it is infinitely rewarding, with a combination of comfortable accommodation, friendly lemurs, and easy walking in the gallery forest.
Habitat and Terrain
The reserve is situated on the banks of the Mandrare river and covers an area of 265ha. Adjacent to the gallery forest are areas of spiny forest. The terrain is generally flat.
A group of ring-tailed lemur
Key species
Mammals:
Ring-tailed lemur, Verreaux’s sifaka, red-fronted brown lemur (introduced), collared brown lemur (introduced), grey mouse lemur, white-footed sportive lemur, greater hedgehog, Madagascar fruit bat.
Birds: Giant coua, hook-billed vanga, Madagascar magpie-robin, Madagascar paradise flycatcher, ashy cuckoo shrike, souimanga sunbird, grey-headed lovebird, two species of vasa parrot, Frances’s sparrowhawk, Madagascar harrier hawk , Malagasy scops owl, white-browed owl.
Reptiles:
Radiated tortoise, spider tortoise, Madagascar ground boa, Oustalet’s chameleon, warty chameleon, jewel chameleon, big-headed gecko, plated lizard (Zonosaurus trilineatus), the near-limbless lizard, Androngo trivittatus.
Visitor information
Location: About 80km west of Fort Dauphin (Tolagnaro), just north of Amboasary.
Access: With sightseeing stops, the journey from Fort Dauphin takes 2 hours on a good road. There is an excellent network of wide paths and trails throughout the reserve. Guides are available, but not mandatory.
Best months to visit: Accessible all year round. September and October for baby lemurs. During and after the rains (December to March) for reptiles.
Accommodation: A very pleasant complex of bungalows with a good restaurant. This is a private reserve run by the de Heaulme family : it is generally necessary to stay at one of their hotels in Fort Dauphin (Tolagnaro) to arrange a visit from there.
Recommendations: An expensive reserve. Feasible as a day trip, but much better to stay over night. Best wildlife viewing is at dawn. Also take a night walk to look for invertebrates as well as nocturnal lemurs.
It is necessary to stay at one of the owner's hotels to arrange a visit with transportation.
